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Here is some information from Pony Carburetor’s that might be of interest.
When a carb vehicle has been sitting for a few weeks or a few months, “leak down” inside the carb will occur. What this really means is that the gasoline inside the carb is evaporating or has evaporated into the atmosphere. The size or capacity of the float bowl determines how quickly evaporation occurs.
So, knowing that the gas inside the carb has evaporated over the long winter’s nap, what is the correct way to start the car? You need to get some gasoline into the float bowl first. Here is how it’s done:
1. Without touching the gas pedal at all, crank the engine over for about 10 seconds. This gets some oil where there hasn’t been any for awhile (oil pump) and it refills the float bowls in the caruretor (fuel pump).
2. Next, push the gas pedal all the way to the floor. This closes the choke plate on the carb (on automatic choke carbs).
3. Next, pump the gas pedal five or six times.
4. Remove your foot from the pedal and do not tough the gas pedal.
5. Turn the key. It should turn over on the first shot. If it doesn’t after two or three seconds of cranking, stop cranking and go back to number 3. If it still won’t start, you have other issues besides leak down.
I hope that this info may be of interest.
MMRJR
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I’ll give it a try in a couple of weeks!
Typically I put the peddle to the floor twice, let it crank for 7-10 seconds. Then crank and pump the peddle and then she jumps to life!
Quote:Here is some information from Pony Carburetor’s that might be of interest.When a carb vehicle has been sitting for a few weeks or a few months, “leak down” inside the carb will occur. What this really means is that the gasoline inside the carb is evaporating or has evaporated into the atmosphere. The size or capacity of the float bowl determines how quickly evaporation occurs.
So, knowing that the gas inside the carb has evaporated over the long Owinter’s nap, what is the correct way to start the car? You need to get some gasoline into the float bowl first. Here is how it’s done:
1. Without touching the gas pedal at all, crank the engine over for about 10 seconds. This gets some oil where there hasn’t been any for awhile (oil pump) and it refills the float bowls in the caruretor (fuel pump).
2. Next, push the gas pedal all the way to the floor. This closes the choke plate on the carb (on automatic choke carbs).
3. Next, pump the gas pedal five or six times.
4. Remove your foot from the pedal and do not tough the gas pedal.
5. Turn the key. It should turn over on the first shot. If it doesn’t after two or three seconds of cranking, stop cranking and go back to number 3. If it still won’t start, you have other issues besides leak down.
I hope that this info may be of interest.
MMRJR
Thanks for posting the information Marshall, that should come in very handy.
On another note I am going to return the carburetor I bought to replace the original in my GTO. It is a modified quadrajet but it was really meant for a Chevy motor. After installing it could not get the car to run without hesitating at all speeds. Am now buying a rebuilt Pontiac carb which should do the job. I did not realize there was such a difference between carbs for pontiacs and Chevy’s. When I purchased the modified carb they did not mention that putting on a Pontiac could present a problem.
Carbs need to be matched to the engine they’re on. Chevy engines rev higher than Pontiacs and the carb needs to be able to handle the specific engine abilities. The basic carb is the same, just set up for a different style of engine. For best results, the carb needs to be tuned to the engine it’s on. Jets, rods, power valves, ect. can all be changed, but it takes someone with experience to tune it right.
GTO Man,
Will there be any issues with returning the carb? Did you buy from Jeg’s or NPD or did you purchase locally? I would hate to see you lose money on a carb that won’t work well on your car.As a last resort, there is always the “carb guru” located off of Stoughton Road. Last year, after rebuilding that Holley carb that was on my car, I ended up driving the car back for some fine tuning right outside his garage, in the driveway icon_cheesygrin.gif
Marshall
I believe GTO Man got his new carb today and is going to put it on and then have it fine-tuned. He will have to post more details
Done. It worked prefect for me today.
I got to step 5 and she fired right up with a nice puff of white smoke (leak down from sitting). It ran for about 5 seconds and then died…
I turned the key and got nothing (no sounds, like a dead starter). I tried again and again, nothing (this has happened before and usually if I let it sit for 5 minutes it will start right up). Then I jacked it up and then took a hammer and tapped on the starter solenoid. Then I tried to start it again and she fired right up! I gave it a little gas for about 1 minute and then she idled smooth as butter.
On my way home from Lake WI (it was a great morning for a cruise) I stopped by QSL for lunch (to thank my buddy who drove up with me) and I noticed they have lots of nice signs for the cruise in starting next week (which was great to see).
A print off of this start up method now has a permanent home in my VW’s glove box.
thanks!
Sounds like that list hit it right on the head. How long had it been since you started your Beetle up?
I followed this list, myself, just last weekend. I only had to go through the cycle one, and the Mustang started right up. I did need to let the car idle and warm up for about 10 minutes, but after everything warmed up, I was on the road and cruising.
Marshall
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