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“There are the best movies and photos that i’ve never seen”
That was a quote from it. It should give you get the general idea. Just spam, it was deletedI suppose you feel like this BangHead.gif because you have to deal with them, but it just makes me Drogar-Laugh(LBG).gif Almost a JOKE OF THE DAY thing. Reminds me of a running joke from Laugh-in “Very interesting, but stupid!”
I’m with the majority here. Usually $50 or less but I have spent $200+ for some hard to find stuff. Buying rare literature or dealer promotional cars can add up fast. If you go to buy a real car, you could spend thouands.
“There are the best movies and photos that i’ve never seen”
???? dontknow.gif I wonder if they’re as good as the ones she has seen? Drogar-Laugh(LBG).gif Drogar-Laugh(LBG).gif
Garibaldi, the site is heading in an entirely new direction. downtown.gif jumpy.gifThis is a beauty thumbsup.gif but is not going cheap. 😯
I’m usually the guy being passed since I drive the speed limit or at most 5 MPH over it. I don’t get many chances to pass other people. icon_cheesygrin.gif When I’m driving in the area I know what lane I need to be in and stay in it. On longer trips I stay in the center lane.
http://forums.hemmings.com/index.cfmd is agood place place to start looking. http://www.egge.com/ and http://catalogs.dailyshopper.com/kanter/ are also good places to look.
Holley’s are very tuneable. I would suggest picking up a book on them as almost every piece on one can be changed. You still need to know if the carb is too big for the engine. I had a 650 spreadbore Holley on a mildy built 350 Chevy and that was almost too much carb for it. It was manual secondaries and I had to watch my RPM before I could floor it or the engine would bog down.
Most palces that sell batteries like Sears, Autozone, Batterys Plus, etc. will do a test for free on your battery. This is lke a tress test for it. If it passes the test, it;s fine. If not, whoever tests it would be happy to sell you one. I change my battery right after I need a jump start. w00t.gif But that is just me. A friend of mine believes in replacing his every five years like your dad. If peace of mind means more than money, replace it now. Or you can carry jumper cables like I do. icon_cheesygrin.gif
Quote:I mean, they are not as good as their corded counterparts (performance wise) and you keep on having to charge a battery that goes bad. A long extension cord is way more practical (and much cheaper).Pure convienence (lazyness) for the most part. Easier to just grab the tool and use it than to pull out the extension cord and ut it away again. I can see a professional working where there isn’t always power available needing them, but not the average person. I got a cordlss screwdriver and light combo for a present once and barely used it. Tossed it when the batteries wouldn’t hold a charge and don’t have any cordless tools now. I do have a drill that I got in the late 70’s that works fine when I plug it in. thumbsup.gif
Usually caued by too much gas for the engine to use so it gets mildly flooded. As the engine revs up, the extra air flow clears the engine and things get back to normal. Look for black exhaust as the engine starts to rev up and clear out excess gas. A converter may burn the extra gas if it in’t too overly rich. It may also be caused by not enough gas and a lean air/fuel mixture getting to the engine. This may even lead to backfire through the carb. Too rich caused by too big a carb for the engine or secondaries opening at the wrong time. May even be a bad thermostat not letting the engine warm up enough. Too lean caused by bad accelerater pump, not enough gas in the carb (wrong float level, pugged filters, weak fuel pump, bad gas line), vacuum leak, poor tune up, weak coil, distrubuter(vacuum advance, timing, dwell, worn out), or even early 70’s emission sytems that controled spark advance. If this is a computer controled carb, it may be a sensor problem. Is this the factory carb or a replacement?
