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Servicing The Thermostat
The thermostat controls the flow of coolant between the engine block and the radiator. When the engine is cold, the thermostat prevents flow of coolant to the radiator, thus permitting it to heat up more rapidly. As the engine warms up, it opens, allowing the coolant to flow to the radiator. The thermostst is usually located on the engine block at the top front of the engine.
To make an in-system check of the operation of the thermostat, proceed as follows:
1. With the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap. If the coolant level is low, add water to bring it up to a specified level.
2. Insert an accurate thermometer into the radiator filler neck. Again, watch for a boil-over if the car has electric cooling fans.
3. Start the engine and observe the thermometer while the engine is warming up.
4. Watch the coolant that is visible in the neck. As the thermostat opens, steam will rise from the coolant and begin to swirl around.
5. If the thermometer’s temperature reading remained nearly the same as the engine warmed up, then rose rapidly to the rating of the thermostat as it opened, and finally remained stationary at this temperature, the thermostat is operating properly.
6. If the temperature on the thermometer was below or above the rating of the thermostat as it opened, the thermostat must be replaced.
7. If the temperature rose steadily as the engine warmed up, then remained stationary somewhere bewteen 120 F & 150 F, the thermostat is either stuck wide open or missing from the system. In either case, replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat:
1. Remove the radiator cap in the matter described earlier, then loosen the petcock.
2. Drain at least one quart of coolant from the system. This lowers the coolant level in the engine block below the thermostat.
3. Tighten the petcock until it is snug.
4. Remove the thermostat housing bolts, then remove the thermostat housing. If it sticks, put a wood block against the housing and tap gently with a hammer until it comes loose.
5. Remove the thermostat and place a clean rag in the opening the dirt out.
6. Scrape the old gasket and sealer off the engine block and thermostat housing. Remove the rag from the opening.
7. Make sure the new thermostat is rated at the temperature rated by the car manufacturer.
8. Seat the new thermostat on the engine block. Make sure the spring side of the thermostat is pointing down into the engine.
9. Coat both sides of the new gasket with gasket sealing compound for a leakproof fit. Carefully place the gasket over the thermostat and the mounting surface of the engine block.
10. Place the thermostat housing on the gasket.
11. Install the two bolts and tighten. Do not overtighten; this can lead to damage of the housing.
12. Clamp the upper radiator hose on the thermostat housing. The calmp should be tightened about 1″ from the end of the hose.
13. Refill the system with a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze; reinstall the radiator cap.
14. Run the engine for 15 or 20 minutes; then check for leaks.
15. Turn off the engine and allow it to cool. Remove the radiator cap as described; recheck the coolant level; then reinstall the cap.
Most carmakers reccomend flushing the cooling system every 2 years or 24,000 miles, but doing it once a year is best. This is because the antirust compound and other additives in antifreeze lose most of their effectiveness within a year. The safest and most practical way to flush the system is to use a flushing kit. This eliminates the need for opening the drain plugs of a hot engine and possibly getting burned. This kit takes about 5 minutes to install, it remains in place for future use. To install a flushing kit:
1. Release the pressure at the radiator cap.
2. Locate the heater hose that runs from the firewall to the engine block. There are two such hoses: one to the water pump, the other to the engine block.
3. After making sure you have the right hose, cut it near the firewall using a sharp utility knife.
4. Slide a hose clamp on the end of each cut pieces. Make sure it fits snugly.
5. Insert the T-fitting, provided in the kit, between the two cut pieces. Make sure it fits snugly.
6. Slide the hose clamps into position, the tighten them.
7. Remove the raidator cap and insert the splash pipe into the neck.
8. Turn on the dashboard heater control so the the heater is flushed clean also.
9. Screw a garden hose onto the T-fitting.
10. Turn on the water full blast and let it run until the water coming out of the splash pipe in clear.
11. Turn off the water and disconnect the hose from the T-fitting. Do not screw on the cap yet.
12. Remove the splash pipe from the raidator and pour the correct amount of antifreezer into the system; this amount should equal half the system’s capacity (listed in the owner’s manual). The anti-freeze displaces half the water, which flows out of the T-fitting reulting in a 50/50 mixture.
13. Screw on the car on the T-fitting.
14. Start the engine, let it run, then turn it off after it reaches normal operating temperature.
15. Check the coolant level; it should be within 1″ of the neck. If more coolant is needed, add pure antifreeze; then replace the raidator cap.
16. Be sure to ad a 50/50 Mixture of antifreeze and water to the expansion tank.
I’ll try to make it. Madison, is a bit of a drive but I’ll try my hardest.
Remember, it is a drive for you guys but we do have a show @ Union this year again the first Sunday in August. The forms aren’t out yet but if interested let me know.
Pressure Check
Test the cooling system for leakage with a pressure tester. Perform this test before draining the coolant, or after replacing any hoses to make sure the system is holding pressure.
1. Loosen the radiator cap and run the engine until it reaches operating temperature. Be especially careful if you car has electric cooling fans; they turn on between 200 F & 220 F, thus causing a boil-overif the cap is off.
2. Turn off the engine, slowly remove the cap.
3. Install the special pressure cap over the radiator filler neck, making sure the cap has seated fully and is tight.
4. With the hand pump, pressurize the system to the ampunt specified by the manufacturer or the amount specified by the pressure cap. Usually a system that holds 15 PSI is pressure-tight.
5. If the reading on the pump remains stable, with little or no pressure loss, the system has no excessive leakage. If the gague indicates a sharp or gradual loss, a leak exists.
6. To locate a leak, keep the pressure in the system up to specification using the hand pump. Check carefully for external coolant leakage.
7. Tighten, repair, or replace leaking parts until the gague holds the specified pressure.
8. If no external leak is found, the leak may originate fro inside the engine. Have the car checked further by a mechanic.
The pressure tester can also be used to check the pressure rating and operation of the radiator cap as follows:
1. Attach the special pressure cap to the correct adapter. if the wrong adapter is used, the test results will not be accurate.
2. Connect the special cap assembly, attached to the tester’s hose, to the adapter. Connect the other end to the adapter to the radiator cap.
3. Operate the hand pump until the gague reads the same as the caps rating.
4. A good cap will hold pressure at or slightly below the cap’s rating for at least 30 seconds; then the pressure might decrease slowly.
5. If the pressure drops too quickly, or if no pressure can be built up, the blowoff valve in the cap is defective. Replace the cap.
6. If the gague reading does no drop off at all, continue to apply pressure until the cap vents. If the cap does not vent, or vents at a pressure more than 1 PSI above it’s rating, replace the cap.
:ditto: I’m still working on this one.
Quote:I long ago ditched NY resolutions.So I guess my resolution is to make no new resolutions icon_cheesygrin.gif
You might be OK if your INS. Co. says that you can drive it around. If ever pulled over, say you are going to a cruise night or your a just driving. You really aren’t using the car as a daily driver.
Quote:I think the location and time, make all the difference in the world!I like the East Towne Mall area alot, and it’s actually closer than Sun Prairie, but I didn’t make it to any of these cruise-ins last year. Actually, I didn’t make it to any of the weekday cruise-ins in Sun Prairie either. I did make it to the one cruise-in at the Quaker Steak and Lube, but I believe that one was on a Sunday afternoon.
In order for me to be more involved this coming year, I will need to drive the Mustang to work and leave from work for any weekday cruise-ins. The problem is my insurance company (Grundy Worldwide) specifically excludes a collector car that is used as a daily driver, although they do cover cruise-ins and car club activities and events.
Marshall
Winter is reapir season for me. Then I buy random stuff for the cars. Parts, Accessories, Other Cars…)
